Hiking a Water Factory

Hiking a Water Factory

Hey there, fellow adventurers! I want to take you on a journey to a place of awe-inspiring beauty and profound significance - the Páramo de Santurbán in Santander, Colombia. As avid hikers, my husband Alex and I couldn't resist the allure of this remarkable ecosystem. Little did we know that our trek would offer us breathtaking landscapes and a chance to connect with nature and shed light on the challenges it faces. So, grab your hiking boots, and let's delve into the wonders of Santurbán!

Picture this: rolling hills covered in a velvety carpet of green, crystalline lakes mirroring the vibrant sky above, and an air so crisp it rejuvenates your soul at a height that literally and figuratively takes your breath away. That's the Paramo de Santurbán for you! Nestled in the Colombian Eastern Ranges, this magical place boasts a humid climate, courtesy of the orographic uplift caused by the majestic Andes. As a result, it receives constant moisture in the form of rain, clouds, and fog. These conditions are vital for developing the true stars of the Paramo - the incredible frailejones. These magnificent beings, also known as Espeletias, dominate the Paramo's landscape, giving it a unique character. But there's more to them than meets the eye.

Laguna Larga (Santander, Jun 2023)

The Páramo de Santurbán is not just a stunning landscape; it plays a vital role as a water factory for the surrounding regions. The unique combination of high elevation, constant moisture, and the presence of frailejones creates an intricate system that efficiently captures, filters, and stores water.

The frailejones, with their remarkable ability to capture moisture from the fog, act as natural sponges, ensuring a steady supply of fresh water to the rivers and streams that sustain local communities. This intricate water cycle is crucial for agriculture, drinking water, and the ecosystem's overall health. The Páramo's designation as a water factory highlights its significance beyond its breathtaking beauty, emphasizing the need to protect and conserve this invaluable resource for future generations.

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Our adventure unfolds: Our day began with an exhilarating sense of anticipation. Rising before the sun, we joined almas aventureras, a local tour agency, as they whisked us away on our adventure. After a scenic three-hour drive from Bucaramanga, we found ourselves in the quaint town of Vetas, perched at an impressive elevation of 3350 meters.

Bienvenidos a Vetas (Santander, 2023)
Vetas receives the nickname "Frailejon covered gold" due to the area's extensive gold reservoirs.

We fueled our bodies over a hearty traditional breakfast and steeled our resolve for the upcoming hike. Setting foot on the trail, we eagerly ventured into the Páramo's embrace. The path ahead was no cakewalk, but the challenge only fueled our determination. As we ascended, the air grew crisper, invigorating our senses and reminding us of the raw power of nature.

The beginning of the hike (Santander, Jun 2023)

After a two-hour uphill trek, we reached 3900 meters above sea level, and we were rewarded with a sight that took our breath away - a serene lake nestled amidst a sea of frailejones. It was a moment of pure magic, a snapshot frozen in time.

A Battle Against Gold Mining: As we marveled at the Páramo's splendor, we couldn't ignore the imminent threat it faces. Santurbán, the region that houses this ecological wonder, has become a battleground between environmental conservation and gold mining interests. Large-scale mining projects encroach upon the Páramo, putting its delicate balance at risk. This conflict raises concerns about potential water pollution, habitat destruction, and biodiversity loss. It's a stark reminder of the Colombian people's challenges in preserving their natural heritage.

With contented hearts and recharged spirits, we sat down for a well-deserved lunch, savoring the flavors while immersing ourselves in the Páramo's serenity. Reluctantly, we bid farewell to this enchanting paradise, turning our steps back towards the city of Bucaramanga.

Tips for your next Páramo adventure:


When embarking on an adventure to explore the Páramo ecosystem, it's crucial to come prepared with the right gear to ensure a comfortable and safe experience. Here are some essential items to consider packing before setting foot in this landscape:

  1. Layered Clothing: Due to the Páramo's high elevation and ever-changing weather conditions, dressing in layers is essential. Start with a moisture-wicking base layer to keep you dry, add a warm insulating layer, and top it off with a waterproof and breathable outer shell to protect you from wind and rain. Remember to pack a hat and gloves to shield yourself from the chilly temperatures.
  2. Sturdy Hiking Boots: The terrain in the Páramo can be uneven and challenging, so investing in a pair of sturdy and waterproof hiking boots is a must. Look for boots with ankle support and a grippy sole to confidently navigate the sometimes slippery slopes.
  3. Backpack: A comfortable and spacious backpack is essential to carry your gear and supplies. Opt for one with adjustable straps and a padded back panel to ensure proper weight distribution and minimize discomfort during long hikes.
  4. Rain Gear: The Páramo's weather can be unpredictable, with rain, fog, and mist appearing anytime. Pack a lightweight, waterproof rain jacket and pants to protect yourself from the elements. Don't forget a waterproof cover for your backpack to keep your belongings dry.
  5. Hydration System: Staying hydrated is crucial when exploring high-altitude environments. Consider bringing a hydration bladder or a reusable water bottle to ensure access to clean drinking water throughout your hike, and pack some high-energy snacks to keep your energy levels up during the trek. We had Bocadillos, a guava and sugar cane concoction used by Colombian people to maintain their sugar level during high-intensity activities.
  6. Sun Protection: The higher altitude increases exposure to the sun's rays. Carry and regularly apply sunscreen with a high SPF, wear a hat with a wide brim to shield your face, and remember to protect your eyes with sunglasses.
  7. First Aid Kit: Accidents happen, so it's crucial to carry a basic first aid kit containing essentials such as bandages, antiseptic wipes, pain relievers, and any necessary personal medications.
  8. Respectful Mindset: While not an item per se, maintaining a respectful mindset toward nature and the local environment is essential. Leave no trace, pack out all your trash, and follow any regulations or guidelines set forth by park authorities to preserve Páramo's delicate ecosystem.

By equipping yourself with the right gear and respecting the environment, you'll be well-prepared to embark on an unforgettable journey through the unique Páramos, immersing yourself in its natural wonders while staying safe and comfortable.